January 5th, 2009

Harpy

Monday morning scorecard.

Coffee with vanilla and cardamom in it: win
Guy whose phone call got me out of the shower, offering to clean my "ductwork:" fail.

I wasn't sure if I was in Brazil or a porn movie.

There's a blues euphemism waiting to happen:

Baby let me clean your ductwork, honey.
Honey let me scrub your vents.
  • Current Music
    earwormed by the Ductwork Blues
Climb

Today I failed like a champion.

The new year means new routes all over the gym, and for some reason every single one has black tape on it. Okay, I lie. Two are green, and one is purple. But the rest are all black.

And tonight I tried five of them, all unrated.

I only sent one, the first one I tried, which is a tricky little ascent mostly on slopers and laybacks with a corner at the very top (a corner, and like no handholds, where "like no" means "one, and pointed in the wrong direction"). I must have falled off that durned thing twelve times before I finally tagged the top, and I only did it by jumping at it and tapping out as I fell past the biners. Maybe I'll make a decent ascent on Wednesday, unless the rain turns out to be freezing rain and we have to stay in.

Of the other five--on one, I couldn't get off the ground. Okay, I lie. I got off the ground. And then I fell off the second handhold, a nearly vertical sloper, every way I tried it. But considering the Platypus strained his left hand on the fourth move, and Tasha didn't get past the sixth, I don't feel bad. Then I made four or five tries at a new green route on the in-and-out overhang where I got my first 5.10(-) and didn't get past the first lip, so I went back down to the ground and tried an easier new route on the same wall, and I would have sent it if I hadn't been so pumped and burned out from the earlier climbs that not only did I fall off the wall (wheeee!), I couldn't get back on.

Last route was a long buckety green on the big overhang, but I lost it on the third or fourth move--my fingers just wouldn't close tight enough to hold me on the wall--and I scraped up my right palm by trying to stick the hold even as I was peeling off it. Next time for sure!

Who would have thought, a year ago, that I would be slinging the lingo so expertly, and bringing tactics to bear?
  • Current Music
    T. typing at the kitchen table